Euskadi, land of colors

"Eroriz ikasten da oinez" ("By falling, one learns to walk")

Basque proverb

When we want to visit an unusual place for vacation, what is it that we usually look for? Is it the strong identity of a country, its unimaginably rich culture, or landscapes that come straight out of a fairy tale? If everything is listed above, Euskadi is your absolute top choice. Although it is part of Spain, this wonderful region, nestled in the Pyrenees and overflowing in France, has such a unique authentic spirit that you will be stunned within seconds.

Get ready to be mesmerized by the friendly atmosphere of the Spanish capitals of the Basques. I visited only two of them - Bilbao and San Sebastian (Donostia), but I'm sure that Vitoria-Gasteiz is just as beautiful. It took me about three days to see the sights of Bilbao, and a few hours to walk around San Sebastian. Here is what I managed to see during that time.

Guggenheim museum

The most iconic building in Bilbao is without a doubt the Guggenheim Museum. It was intentionally built to put Bilbao on the world map and to breathe fresh life into this once run down and highly polluted part of the city.

Designed by Frank Gehry and completed in 1997, the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao is home to nineteen galleries with a mix of temporary exhibitions of contemporary art by local Basque artists and additional themed exhibitions by artists from around the globe.

Before entering the museum don’t forget to take a photo of the 40 ft (12 metre) tall Puppy by Jeff Koons by the entrance. The West Highland white terrier is carpeted with flowers and had its own intricate built-in network of pipes that water and feed the plants every day.

Old Town (Casco Viejo)

My favourite part of visiting any European city is wandering around its historical centre and Bilbao is no different. Casco Viejo is the medieval old quarter of Bilbao located on the right bank of the Nervión river. This area was once defended by city walls until the walls were removed in the late-1800s exposing its original seven streets. In fact, locals still call the area Las Siete Calles (“seven streets”).

The pedestrian streets are lined with classic shops, full of innovative restaurants and all kinds of bars to try the best of Basque cuisine.

The Old Town is home to the oldest churches and monuments in Bilbao: the Cathedral of Santiago, the Church of San Anton, the Archaeological Museum, the Basque Museum, the Bidebarrieta City Library and Plaza Nueva.

Funicular to Mount Artxantda

For a breathtaking panoramic view overlooking Bilbao, take the funicular up Mount Artxanda. The Funicular de Artxanda opened in 1915 and once you reach the top, you’ll see a part of the original funiculars machinery immortalised as a sculpture. Also located up here is a recreational area with gardens and various restaurants.

El Arenal

An open space for walking along the seven streets, El Arenal is the purest Bilbao. Locals walk here. Its name refers to the inner beach that existed there in the past. Over time, it transformed into a port until it became the park that is today. Between the Arriaga Theater and the town hall, El Arenal is a lively place where music is played every Sunday afternoon so that the most cheerful ones can go out to dance.

Etxebarria park

Surrounded by hills, Etxebarria Park offers magnificent views of Bilbao. One of the largest green areas in the city, where you can walk, ride a bike or use the courts and sports areas. It is well connected to the city and can be easily reached on foot or by public transport.

San Mamés Stadium

If you are a football fan like me, make sure you visit the stadium of Athletic Club San Mamés (also known as Nuevo San Mames or San Mames Baria), which opened on September 16, 2013, replacing the "old" San Mamés as the home of Athletic Bilbao. With a capacity of 53,289 seats, San Mamés is the 8th largest stadium in Spain and the largest in the Basque Country.

The mural Soñar (dream)

This is a huge mural on the bare facade of a building in Olabeaga. Why go? Because only few words have that power. Five letters in Spanish that invite us to close our eyes and believe. No unnecessary decorations, just the intensity of the language. Created by the SpY team of artists, it instantly becomes one of Bilbao's icons. It can be seen from many points of the city, but without a doubt approaching and estimating the size of its font is worth a walk. An artistic intervention that gave life to a neighborhood that deserved it.

Make sure you stop by Mercado de la Ribera, walk along the Zibizuri Bridge and buy a book from a small antique bookstore (I bought a second-hand book on Basque mythology for only three euros).

An interesting fact is that the Basques have their own language - Euskera. There are four recognized languages ​​in Spain. They are Spanish, Catalan, Galician and Basque. The Basque language is the only one without Roman roots. It is spoken in the border area between Spain and France. About 800,000 people speak Basque. It is considered the oldest language in Europe, but its origin is still unknown. Therefore, Basque remains a mystery to linguists to this day.

Bilbao is one of the most amazing cities in Spain not only because of the number of sights to visit, but also because eating here is a real pleasure. The Basque capital is a culinary discovery and, of course, the quality pays off. Restaurants in Bilbao are not cheap at all, but there is one little trick: menu of the day! Most restaurants offer this formula, so you can enjoy quality cuisine at fair and affordable prices. And of course the famous pintxos, which are small portions, something like tapas. Here is a list of the restaurants I tried:

El Globo

It is included in the Michelin giude. What I tried was a homemade tartlet with Idiazabal cheese and fig jam.

Restaurante Cafetería Pentxo

Located in the heart of Bilbao’s Old Quarter and with a tradition of years, this is one of the most recommended restaurants in Bilbao and one of the cheapest if you want to stop by for lunch or dinner while visiting the city. I took advantage of their menu of the day and chose rice with mussels as an appetizer, squids in their own ink for a main course and goxua dessert, which consists of a base of whipped cream, a layer of sponge cake and a layer of caramelized custard.

Gure Toki

It is known as the best pintxo restaurant in Bilbao. Everything I ordered was really tasty, but I was most impressed by the Idiazabal cheese and mushroom soup.

It is impossible to visit San Sebastian and not fall in love with this majestic city. Donostia, as it is called in Basque, has a round bay with pristine white sand beaches that have long attracted wealthy visitors looking for sun and sophistication. This is what makes the city famous during the Belle Époque, and also the place where Queen Maria Cristina had her royal summer house. Evidence of San Sebastian's glorious past can still be seen throughout the city.

La Concha

The most beautiful city beach in Europe is decorated with luxury mansions as well as a famous spa called La Perla. Its path is lined with a richly decorated white railing, which has become a symbol of the city.

Palacio de Miramar

This historic building was established in 1893 to serve as a summer house for the royal family. British architect Seldon Warnham designed the building as an English-style villa, and its location offers fantastic views of the bay. In 1972, the gardens were opened to the public, while the building itself usually remained closed.

El Peine del Viento (The Comb of the Wind)

Peine del Viento is a group of steel sculptures located at the end of Ondarreta Beach. Designed by local sculptor Eduardo Chilida, it is perhaps the most iconic image of San Sebastian.

The metal structures are fused in the rocks above the Cantabrian Sea. The waves crash violently on the rocks, while the wind "combs" through the structures.

Old Town

The old town of San Sebastian is known for the highest concentration of bars in the world. It is formed by narrow streets located at the foot of Mount Urgul. This is the perfect place to walk, where you can explore the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus and the Constitution Square (Plaza de la Constitución), a neoclassical square built around the former town hall and known to locals as "la consti."

Make sure you stop and relax in one of the many bars to try some of the local pintxos, which are known to be especially delicious in the area. Unfortunately, they are also the most expensive in the Basque Country, but don't let that stop you. I recommend Bar Karrika, where I was extremely pleased with the food and the service. Don't forget to try the typical Euskadi cider Saizar.

We all have heard the phrase "the grass is greener on the other side." I don't know about the other side, but I assure you that Euskadi is green. Ridiculously green. So green that my friends asked me if the photos I had sent them were real. You bet!

Agur, Euskadi! I promise to come back!