Asturias - the nature paradise of Spain

“Asturias, with mountains that are vestiges and viewpoints; with entrails that have been of fever and fires; with seas like meadows eager for sweet lights. Asturias – fertile and talkative, generous and murmuring. Growing and waning. Summary of despair, the bosom of a lot of hopes.” ~ Francisco Sosa Wagner

Asturias is a wonderful land that has a lot to offer visitors.

What will win you over are its municipalities. The charm of the majestic city of Oviedo, the unique atmosphere of Gijón, the exceptional village of Cudillero and the beaches surrounded by an incredible green landscape make Asturias an exceptional destination.

For nature lovers, this is also a place that is certainly worth a visit, as it is home to some of the most beautiful landscapes in Spain.

Oviedo

The capital of Asturias, Oviedo, is located in the center of the region, and is a medium-sized old city with about 200,000 inhabitants. It has some of the oldest Christian buildings in Spain, but when you look closely, you'll also see the influence of much more recent historical events around the city, such as the Spanish Civil War.

Oviedo became perhaps a little better known to people outside of Spain when Woody Allen directed his film Vicky Cristina Barcelona in 2008. The film was shot all around Oviedo as a neighborhood of Barcelona, and after spending time here Woody falls in love in the place.

Cathedral of San Salvador

The foundation of the cathedral dates from the late 14th century, but the tower was added in the mid-16th century, leading to a mixture of architectural styles. Inside is a UNESCO-protected 9th-century chapel where you can see a very special piece of cloth said to have been placed around Jesus' head after his death, and two crosses encrusted with precious stones.

The church of St Mary at Mount Naranco

The King of Asturias, Ramiro I, ordered this building to be built as a royal palace as part of a larger complex that also included the nearby church of San Miguel de Lillo, 100 meters up the mountain. It was completed in 848.

Church of San Miguel de Lillo

This Roman Catholic church was originally dedicated to St. Virgin, but the worship of this saint passed to the palace down the hill in the 12th century. After that, the church became dedicated to Saint Michael.

Old Town

Don't miss out on a stroll through the old town, visiting the Museum of Fine Arts, San Francisco Park, and Mercado El Fontán.

Calle Gascona

You can't leave Oviedo without trying the delicious cider (sidra). It is on Calle Gascona, also known as "Cider Boulevard", where you will find more than ten cider houses to try this local drink. Waiters will pour cider into your glass from (very) high. This method allows the drink to be saturated with oxygen, which gives it a sweeter taste.

Gijón

The capital of the Costa Verde is a wonderful mix of urban development and natural surroundings. The friendly nature of the people, the lack of stress and the incredible Asturian landscape even in the most avant-garde neighborhoods make the city even more charming.

At any time of the year Gijon invites you to walk its streets and admire it.

Take a walk along the promenade by the sea until you reach the famous Cimadevilla district. It is famous for its old building facades, painted in bright colors by the fishermen who used to live in this area. It is also where the Romans settled, which is why there are the famous thermal baths overlooking the Bay of Biscay.

Eulogy to the Horizon sculpture

This mammoth sculpture sits atop Santa Catalina Hill and is one of Gijón's most famous landmarks. Created by the famous Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida, it is made of cement blocks and was completed in 1990. Locals have nicknamed this sculpture "King Kong's Pantry" because of its interesting shape.

Universidad Laboral de Gijón

What trip to Gijón would be complete without a visit to La Laboral – the largest building in Spain (270,000 m2)! In case that isn't impressive enough, it also houses the largest oval church in the world and is the tallest stone building in Spain, and the tallest building in Asturias.

The Universidad Laboral de Gijón was originally used as an orphanage for the children of mining families. Coal mining was one of the largest industries in the Asturias region, which was also a dangerous business, and many of the workers were seriously injured or died, unable to take care for their families. This is where the orphanage was set up. Children not only stayed at La Laboral, but were also taught academic, sports and trade skills to prepare for the future.

As mining becomes less popular in the region, the building turns into a university. However, nowadays it is known as the City of Culture and is used for various cultural activities and exhibitions.

El Molinón Stadium

El Molinón is Spain's oldest professional football ground still in use, having been built in 1908 and serving as one of the venues for the 1982 World Cup.

Cudillero

Cudillero is a small, picturesque fishing port that sits on the side of a mountain. It has these outstanding overhanging houses with eaves and brightly colored windows, perched on a horseshoe of steep cliffs around the harbor. It is considered one of the most charming places in Spain.

Legend has it that Cudillero was founded by the Vikings. We cannot know for sure whether this is true or not, but many things point to it: the Danish Vikings did sail along the coasts of northern Spain and certainly had a presence in what is now Asturias, Galicia and northern Portugal.

What to eat in Asturias?

Asturias' clover-green pastures, teeming seas and fertile farmlands yield some of the Iberian Peninsula's most prized delicacies, from aged Asturian valley beef and sea urchins to spicy mountain cheeses. Here are my recommendations:

Fabada

Fabada is to Spain what feijoada is to Brazil, cassoulet is to France and beans with sausage is to Bulgaria: a rich stew made with large white beans (Fabes de la Granja) that are garnished with pieces of fennel, chorizo and saffron.

Tortos asturianos

This humble dish is made with a mix of cornmeal, ground pork that is seasoned with red pepper (picadillo) and eggs. Cakes (corn fritters) are made with corn flour, wheat flour, salt, water and olive oil.

Chorizo a la sidra

Chorizo a la sidra is one of the most traditional Spanish tapas. It is made with fresh or unpreserved chorizo sausage, which is cut into thick slices and fried in olive oil with the addition of Asturian apple cider until the liquid is reduced.

This tapa is traditionally served warm in small clay pots. And don't forget to pair it with a glass of Sidra de Asturias, because you can never have too much cider.

Frixuelos

These are pancakes accompanied by jam, cream or Nutella. What I did try was the cake made of frixuelos.

Carbayones

"Carbayons" are another typical Asturian pastry and actually a specialty of Oviedo. The name was given by a baker as a tribute, and refers to a beloved oak that was once cut down in the city center and became a symbol of the city.

Casadiellas

These cute little empanadas are filled with ground walnuts that have been soaked overnight in anise liqueur and sugar. They are fried and sprinkled with sugar.

To visit Asturias means to recall feelings that sometimes we forget about... the sense of peace as you walk through lush green valleys, the feeling of walking barefoot on a rain-soaked grass, the smell of the sea at sunrise or the cool air touching your cheeks while you are enjoying the breathtaking views.

Asturias does give you peace... and maybe a few kilos on top :)